Roberta Cucuzza Millinery x Genaro Rivas AW26 | London Fashion Week

On Sunday 22 February 2026 Young Creators Award Winner Genaro Rivas (Vogue Business x Visa) unveiled ‘A Glass to Break’ in front of 250+ guests. This was his 6th London Fashion Week show. For the first time Genaro decided to introduce millinery to the collection and I was over the moon when he asked me to collaborate with him.

The collection consists of 26 predominantly womenswear looks, with selected menswear silhouettes, exploring the act of rebuilding from what has been broken. Materials are central to the narrative, introducing innovative textiles developed in collaboration with biomaterial partners including Ponda, Savian by BioFluff and Banofi.

Genaro and I co-designed five striking headpieces around the theme of breaking through a glass ceiling. 

Four of the outerwear styles in the collection were developed by Tom Burr at Materialise Lab, where I am also based. Working alongside Tom on these looks gave us the opportunity to create a stronger connection between the garments and the headpieces. Genaro was often visiting us in the studio, providing feedback and direction.


The Yellow Look

The Yellow Look | Headpiece by Roberta Cucuzza x Genaro Rivas AW26 | Photo: Priya Germaine

This headpiece was made with my signature technique, which combines bioplastic with rattan cane; each shard was individually made and hand-stitched on a bespoke wire structure; it took 45 hours of work from concept to runway.

The mohair coat was developed by Tom Burr.


The Horns Mask

Horns headpiece by Roberta Cucuzza x Genaro Rivas AW26 | Photo:Vishal Raj

The horns mask was designed to visually connect with the opening of the zippers at the bottom of the coat. Bioplastic and rattan cane, mounted on a bespoke wire structure; 25 hours of work from concept to runway.

The coat was developed by Tom Burr.


The Leather Look

Leather Mask headpiece by Roberta Cucuzza x Genaro Rivas AW26 | Photo: Kenna Kroge

Made with Banofi vegetable leather, metal eyelets, safety pins, mounted on a bespoke wire structure; 31 hours of work from concept to runway. This was possibly the most powerful look in the collection, in my opinion.

The design of the mask took many iterations and interactions with Genaro, and evolved as the collection took shape.


The Zippers Look

Zippers mask by Roberta Cucuzza x Genaro Rivas AW26 | Photo: Kenna Kroge

This headpiece had a particularly complex structure to allow stability on the runway. It was made with zippers sewn on crin, then mounted on a bespoke wire structure; 30 hours from concept to runway.


The Red Shards Look

Red shards headpiece by Roberta Cucuzza x Genaro Rivas AW26 | Photo: Priya Germaine

This was the last headpiece in the collection, made to signify the end of the journey of breaking through the glass ceiling. It connected well in design with the Yellow piece, and with the closing dress of the collection.

Made with laser-cut acrylic shards, mounted on a bespoke wire structure; 18 hours from concept to runway.


What I loved about working with Genaro was the creative freedom: the process would start with a conversation around the concept, he’d doodle some ideas on paper, then I would sketch (often late at night, or first thing in the morning!), I’d prototype the ideas and show him some options. He would feed his comments and often introduce key design modifications. It was a very collaborative and open creative process where we trusted and respected each other’s skills.

Genaro clearly appreciates millinery and craftsmanship, often celebrating what hats bring to an outfit; during an interview with Kaltblut magazine he describes our collaboration:

“Her discipline is extraordinary. The collection revolves around shattering, so the headpieces became extensions of fracture.”

Two pieces were crafted from bioplastic, their translucent forms bent into sharp, tension-filled structures. “It was less collaboration,” Rivas reflects, “more co-creation. A collision.”

Genaro Rivas and Roberta Cucuzza @ Materialise Lab, Blue Garage | Genaro Rivas AW/26 collection

The collection received extensive press coverage and was mentioned in Forbes magazine, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle, and even on Peruvian National TV. 

I look forward to doing more work with Genaro, and other designers who appreciate the magic of millinery on the runway.


P.S. I am planning some workshops where you can learn the art of creating sculptural pieces with biomaterials – you can sign up to the waiting list here.

Till next time x

Roberta


Big thanks to:

Tom Burr at Materialise Lab for the support and incredible dedication to developing these looks (and for playing great music in the studio!).

Richard Phillipart and his amazing hair team for helping with the fitting of the headpieces during the show.

The models from Flow Model Management for wearing the headpieces so beautifully.

I.dea PR for the extensive press coverage and pictures.

All my work was designed and developed at Materialise Lab, Blue Garage, Lewisham, London.